Lawn Turfing and Seeding 

This is the medium that provides the plant nutrients. It is essential that this is a good organic loam. The pH level is also very important. With the wrong level, the plants are unable to utilise the nutrients. The ideal pH level for fine turf is 6 or 7. Natural soil contains organic material, minerals, soil moisture and soil air. The mineral nutrients dissolve in soil moisture and are absorbed by the roots. Soil air is necessary for roots to breathe and affects chemical and biological processes in the soil. 

The most important watering is that carried out as soon as the turf is laid. One hour of watering at that time is equivalent to six hours watering later on. Special attention should be paid to the turf edges, as these are the areas that dry out the most, due to air getting underneath. This drying out can cause the soil to shrink. preventing root to soil contact. A light roller after 7 to 10 days can help if this has occurred. Obviously natural rainfall is by far the best form of watering, as the grass and water temperatures are compatible. Cold mains water on a hot surface can cause shock and stress to the plants, so the best time to water in dry conditions is at the cooler morning or evening time of the day. Over watering is just as damaging as under watering as this causes water-logging and soil shrinkage. A slight deficiency is not always a bad thing, as it allows air into the soil and encourages the roots to go deeper, which is highly desirable. 

If you applied pre-turfing fertiliser during preparation prior to laying, your turf will have received all the fertiliser necessary to maintain healthy growth for at least two months after harvesting (depending on soil type). When applying chemical nutrients, great care should be taken and the manufacturers recommendations must be followed to the letter. Over application of any chemical treatment can cause the plants to die. Simplicity is the key. grass plants need a nitrogen rich fertiliser during the spring/summer growing season and phosphorus to encourage root growth during late autumn and winter. Fertiliser should be applied every 8 to 10 weeks throughout the growing season. 

7 to 10 days after laying turf in spring and summer, the grass should be well enough established to commence mowing. A good way to check is to see if it is possible to turn back a corner of the turf. If it is well anchored by root, it is all right to start mowing. For the first cut, make sure that the mower is set at a height to just top the grass. A good rule of thumb is to never remove more than 25% of the total plant. This prevents stress to the plant and if not using a grass box, will reduce the quantity of unsightly and damaging clippings. For the best results, mow at least twice weekly during the late spring, once a week during summer (if dry) and early autumn and approximately every 10 days in mid to late autumn. Obviously this must be flexible to suit our varied weather conditions. Make sure your mower is maintained and sharp, as badly maintained mowers can damage grass. 

For many years, bitches have taken the blame for destroying areas of lawn with their urine. Dog urine in concentration will also kill grass. There is really no cure other than prevention. 

The most common disease affecting grass is Fusarium patch disease. This disease can cause tremendous damage if not tackled immediately with a suitable fungicide, a treatment which may have to be repeated more than once. Serious trouble with disease is usually encountered when maintenance is not of the best, e.g. too much of the wrong fertiliser at the wrong time. Where fungicidal treatment of disease is considered necessary, it is important to remember infection is occurring on the roots of the grass so that penetration of the fungicide into the root zone is essential. 

Weeds 

 

The best weed treatment is prevention. This can be achieved by maintaining your lawn in good condition. Grass is a very competitive plant and if it is in a healthy state, weeds will find it hard to become established in a dense sward. However, weeds are also competitive and therefore capable of becoming established rapidly if damage or stress presents the opportunity. There are almost as many products for treating weeds as there are weed species. Basically it is a matter of identifying the weeds and obtaining the appropriate product. As with fertiliser application, it is essential to follow the manufacturers' recommendations. 

Naturally occurring in the Autumn and Winter in mild and damp weather. White mould spores appear particularly in shady or sheltered areas. Although this can be a bit unsightly, frosty weather usually eliminates it. The grass usually recovers the following Spring. 

Common in warm and damp conditions on newly laid turf and established lawns. Do not eat them as they could be poisonous. The best way of removing them is to mow them off ideally with a mower that has a box to collect them. Although unsightly they will not harm the grass. 

A fungal disease that naturally occurs when the grass is under stress. To combat red thread make sure the soil under your lawn is well structured and free draining, also applying a high nitrogen fertiliser can help the grass recover. 

Leather Jacket grubs are the larvae of daddy long legs/crane flies. Female adults lay eggs in late Summer which quickly hatch into leather jackets. They then live under ground over winter and spring before hatching and flying away as new crane flies. The leather jackets feed mainly on the roots of the turf, and so causing the grass to have stunted growth and brown patches. Most damage occurs in spring. The best way to control them is with an insecticide lawn grub killer, this can be purchased from most garden centres.